Isolated in the heart of the Pacific Ocean, the Galápagos Islands are a living museum of evolution—home to wildlife found nowhere else on Earth. Giant tortoises roam volcanic highlands, marine iguanas dive through crystalline waters, and blue-footed boobies dance along pristine beaches. It’s a place so unique that Charles Darwin’s visit in 1835 helped shape the theory of natural selection.

In just 5 days, we island-hopped through this remarkable archipelago—starting on San Cristóbal, then journeying to Isabela via Santa Cruz, snorkeling with sea lions, penguins, reef sharks, and even playful sea turtles. We watched flamingos at sunset, walked through lava-sculpted trails, and soaked in unforgettable ocean views from tiny fishing towns.

The logistics of visiting Galápagos aren’t always straightforward. Since all flights to the islands depart in the morning, we had to spend a night in Quito before catching an early flight to San Cristóbal the next day. That meant less than four hours of sleep—but it was the only way to make it work without missing a full day.

Despite the long travel days and tight connections, every moment in Galápagos felt extraordinary. Whether you’re dreaming of diving with sharks, walking among marine iguanas, or spotting flamingos and giant tortoises along wild coastal paths, this itinerary will help you navigate the magic of the Galápagos with precision and purpose.

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📍 Itinerary At a Glance

Day 1: Arrival in San Cristóbal

• Landed in the Galápagos after an overnight in Quito and immediately met sea lions, marine iguanas, and pelicans just steps from our accommodation.
• Explored the town on foot, visited Playa de los Lobos and the Charles Darwin statue, and ended the day with sunset on the beach alongside napping sea lions.

Day 2: Snorkeling Kicker Rock (León Dormido)

• Took an early catamaran to snorkel at Kicker Rock, swimming with sea turtles, sharks, and colorful fish.
• Spent the afternoon in town after a full morning at sea, enjoying moments with sea lion, then enjoyed another dinner of local favorites including patacones.

Day 3: Ferry to Isabela via Santa Cruz

• Departed San Cristóbal and stopped for several hours in Santa Cruz.
• Arrived in Isabela by late afternoon, spotting wild penguins near the dock, and later visited a lagoon where we saw wild flamingos for the first time.

Day 4: Snorkeling at Los Túneles + Giant Tortoise Trail

• Snorkeled through lava tunnels, swimming with sea lions, white-tip sharks, sea horses, and curious sea turtles that came right up to us.
• Hiked the Camino de Tortugas Gigantes under a tropical downpour and came face to face with a majestic Galápagos tortoise in the wild.

Day 5: Tintoreras Snorkeling + Concha de Perla

• Snorkeled with dozens of sharks and playful sea lions, and visited nesting grounds for iguanas and blue-footed boobies.
• Spent the afternoon at Concha de Perla, where juvenile sea lions swam inches from our faces, and later explored town and the Malecon before one final Galápagos sunset.

📌 Things to Keep in Mind for Future Travelers

Planning a trip to the Galápagos on your own is entirely possible—and incredibly rewarding—but it requires a bit of foresight. These islands are unlike anywhere else on Earth, with strict conservation policies, logistical challenges, and unforgettable wildlife encounters. Here are a few essential tips to help make your journey smooth and stress-free:

💵 Currency & Payments

The official currency in the Galápagos Islands is the U.S. Dollar (USD), just like in mainland Ecuador. However, cash is king, and you’ll want to bring plenty of small bills ($1s, $5s, $10s) before arriving.

While ATMs exist in Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal, they are extremely limited on Isabela, and machines on all islands are known to run out of cash or have connectivity issues. Don’t count on using your credit card outside of large hotels or tourist-focused tour operators—many restaurants, shops, and local businesses only accept cash, although more businesses are adopting credit card payments with the arrival of better internet to the archipelago.

💡 Pro tip: If you plan to book inter-island ferries or tours locally, it’s better to have cash on hand to avoid higher fees or complications.

✈️ Flights and Entry Requirements

• Plan for an overnight stay in mainland Ecuador. All flights to the Galápagos depart in the morning from either Quito or Guayaquil. If your international flight arrives late (as ours did), you’ll need to book a hotel near the airport to rest before your early domestic departure.
• Flights land either on Baltra (for Santa Cruz) or San Cristóbal.
• Two mandatory fees apply:
  • Transit Control Card (TCT): $20 USD per person, paid at the airport before your flight to the Galápagos.
  • Park Entry Fee: $200 USD per adult (in cash), paid upon arrival to the islands. Kids under 12 pay $100 USD. Have this amount ready! This fees were recently updated, since just a year ago we paid $100 USD per adult. It is their way to control the growing tourism.

🛥️ Island Hopping Logistics

Inter-island ferries are available between Santa Cruz, San Cristóbal, and Isabela, usually departing twice a day (early morning and mid-afternoon). Tickets cost about $30–$35 USD per person each way, and reservations should be made at least a day in advance (ideally earlier), especially during high season.

We traveled by ferry between all three islands, and while it’s the most affordable and common method of transportation, it’s important to note that you do lose a significant amount of time in transit—something we only fully appreciated in hindsight.

For example, traveling from San Cristóbal to Isabela involved a mandatory stopover in Santa Cruz, where we had several hours to kill before boarding our next ferry. If you’re planning to visit Santa Cruz anyway, this gives you time to explore the town or visit the Charles Darwin Research Station. But if not, the logistics can feel like a full-day detour. We left San Cristóbal early in the morning around 7 AM, and didn’t reach Isabela until late afternoon—effectively spending an entire day on boats and in waiting areas. Having said that, Santa Cruz is well worth visiting and at least spending a few hours walking through the streets, even if you don’t feel like visiting the Charles Darwin Research Station.

The same applies in reverse. To get from Isabela to Santa Cruz in time for a flight back to mainland Ecuador, we had to board a ferry at dawn, spending about two hours on choppy seas before even beginning the airport journey.

💡 A few key considerations:

• The ferry boats are small, enclosed, and not air-conditioned. While open-air in concept, they are often sealed during rainy conditions, cutting off airflow and creating a warm, stuffy environment.
• Motion sickness is common, especially in rough seas. We highly recommend taking motion sickness medication ahead of time and sitting at the back of the boat if you want any kind of view or breeze.
• These conditions can be particularly challenging for kids, anyone with claustrophobia, or those sensitive to long, confined rides.
• There are small charter flights available between islands, which could be a more comfortable (but far pricier) option. At the time of our trip, these flights were extremely expensive and lacked the transparency or reviews we needed to feel confident booking them.

The other option, of course, is cruising the Galápagos by boat, which may be more efficient and comfortable overall. That said, we chose to travel independently because we wanted the flexibility to photograph wildlife, move at our own pace, and decide which tours or locations to prioritize. It’s not the most luxurious option, but for travelers like us, who value freedom, photography, and immersion, it was the right call for this first trip.

Also: you’ll need to pay small port fees (around $1 USD) at many docks and sometimes for water taxis that take you from the boat to shore.

🚰 Water Safety & Health Tips

Due to strict environmental regulations and the lack of a centralized sewage or water purification system, tap water in the Galápagos is not safe to drink. In fact, tap water is not potable anywhere on the islands.

The islands are extremely conscious of conservation, which means no sewage is dumped untreated and water is carefully managed. As a result, bottled and filtered water is essential for every visitor.

🧴 Here’s how to stay safe and hydrated:

• Use only bottled or purified water for drinking and brushing your teeth.
• Most hotels, hostels, restaurants, and even some shops provide free filtered water stations—we found this to be a wonderful surprise and a great initiative. Bring a reusable water bottle and refill often. It gets really hot so you need to stay hydrated.
• Avoid ice unless you’re sure it’s made with filtered water.
• Never drink water from the tap or showers, even at high-end accommodations.

💊 In case your stomach reacts to the changes in food or environment (as it sometimes does when traveling to certain regions), it’s wise to carry anti-diarrheal medication and electrolyte packets/rehydration salts. If you’re prone to motion sickness, also bring seasickness tablets, as the ferry rides between islands can be quite rough.

☀️ Sun Protection is Critical

The Galápagos sun is no joke. Located right on the equator, the islands receive direct, perpendicular sun rays year-round, making UV exposure extremely intense—even on cloudy days. Despite applying sunscreen every four hours, I personally experienced one of the worst sunburns of my life during this trip, on day 1. If you’re planning to snorkel, swim, or spend time on boats, standard precautions may not cut it.

For ultimate protection:

• We used the Hawaiian Tropic Sheer Touch SPF 30 throughout our trip and loved its lightweight texture and scent. While it worked well on milder days, under Galápagos sun we recommend going higher SPF if you’re prone to burning.
• Choose mineral sunscreens that are reef-safe and biodegradable, as they help protect marine ecosystems.
• Wear long-sleeved rash guards or UV-protective swim shirts if you plan to snorkel or surf—this is one of the most effective ways to prevent burns.
• Bring a wide-brimmed hat and UV-blocking sunglasses for hikes or beach visits.

And don’t forget—stay hydrated. Luckily, all islands offer frequent access to safe, filtered water via refill stations at hotels and many restaurants and shops, so bring your reusable bottle and drink regularly throughout the day.

🦟 Bug Spray & Biting Flies

While mosquitoes are present in the Galápagos—particularly in humid, vegetated areas like Isabela and parts of Santa Cruz—they weren’t our biggest nuisance. What truly caught us off guard were the biting flies on certain beaches. Their bites were sharp and immediate—you could feel the sting as they landed, and they were surprisingly persistent.

To stay protected, we used the Sawyer Picaridin Insect Repellent (20%), which provided reliable defense against both mosquitoes and biting flies without the greasy feel or plastic-damaging effects of DEET. While it’s not marketed as reef-safe, it’s considered a gear-safe, low-toxicity alternative often recommended for travel in tropical environments. We only used it when we didn’t plan to get in the water afterwards. If you’re planning to swim shortly after application or prefer to go fully biodegradable, look for eco-conscious alternatives marked as reef-friendly.

Here’s what we recommend:

• Use a DEET-free repellent like picaridin or a natural formula that’s effective yet safer for sensitive environments.
• Wear long sleeves and lightweight pants when hiking or lounging on beaches, especially in late afternoons when bugs are most active.
• Avoid applying bug spray before entering the ocean—even small traces can harm delicate marine ecosystems.

As with everything in the Galápagos, the goal is to leave no trace—so pack smart and protect both yourself and the wildlife.

🌴 Accommodation and Dining

• Hotels and hostels are plentiful on Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal, and many are within walking distance of the docks and main areas.
• Wi-Fi and phone reception is limited and unreliable across the islands, outside of your accommodation. Embrace the digital detox!
• Food options vary in quality and price. You can find affordable local eateries (comedores) serving set meals for $5–$10 USD.

A Quick Note About Island Logistics: A couple of times during our stay, we encountered restaurants that were unexpectedly out of items like chicken or certain vegetables, despite being listed on the menu. When we asked about it, we learned that the Galápagos Islands rely on regular container shipments from mainland Ecuador for many food supplies. Occasionally, due to rough seas or logistical issues, some containers are delayed—or even lost overboard—resulting in temporary shortages of certain ingredients.

It’s all part of the experience of being on a remote archipelago. Our advice? Be flexible with your food choices, and take it as an opportunity to try something new or more locally sourced. Most restaurants are happy to recommend alternatives when certain dishes aren’t available.

🐢 Respect for Nature is Paramount

• You’re visiting one of the most fragile ecosystems on the planet. Stay on marked trails, do not touch or feed the animals, and always follow your guide’s instructions in protected areas.
• Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a reusable water bottle, and avoid plastic as much as possible.
• Wildlife is everywhere, even in towns—iguanas sunbathe on sidewalks, sea lions nap on benches, and birds perch just feet away. Observe quietly and keep your distance.

🧳 Packing Essentials for Galápagos

• Underwater camera – Perfect for capturing snorkeling and diving footage and rainy adventures. We’ve used GoPro since the series 4, and the Hero 10 for this trip, but if you’re just getting started, we recommend checking out the latest GoPro model — it’s a game-changer for travel photography and video.
• Comfortable walking shoes or sandals – Ideal for lava rocks, sandy paths, and coastal trails. Choose something with thick soles and solid grip.
• Dry bag – Essential for snorkeling tours and boat rides, especially with sudden rain. This lightweight waterproof dry bag kept our gear safe throughout the trip.
• Reef-safe sunscreen & insect repellent (check updated local regulations).
• Light rain jacket – weather can be unpredictable (you can always just decide to get wet, like we did).
• Snorkel gear – Bring your own if you plan to explore on your own (which we highly recommend). We always use this snorkel set which is very comfortable and provides and anti-fog mask with wide field of view.

🦜 Wildlife Encounters

🐢 Wildlife Encounters in the Galápagos: An Ethical Traveler’s Dream

The Galápagos Islands are one of the most extraordinary wildlife destinations on the planet. What makes it even more magical is that many animals here have no natural fear of humans, so you’ll find yourself just steps—or even inches—away from creatures found nowhere else on Earth.

From curious juvenile sea lions that swim right up to your snorkel mask to prehistoric-looking marine iguanas sunbathing in groups, every single day brings new surprises. Below are some of the key species to look out for and where (and when) you’re most likely to spot them.

🦭 Sea Lions (Galápagos Sea Lion)

You’ll see sea lions everywhere—from San Cristóbal’s piers to Isabela’s beaches, and often just sprawled out in the middle of boardwalks or benches like sleepy locals. But the real magic happens in the water.

Especially the juveniles are incredibly playful and social. They’ll spin and twirl right next to you, clearly as curious about you as you are about them. While you’re not allowed to touch or chase them (remember, they are still wild animals), their energy is infectious.

🗓️ Best time to see: Year-round

📍 Best places: La Lobería (San Cristóbal), Playa Mann, Isabela’s Concha de Perla

🦎 Marine Iguanas

These reptilian relics are the only iguanas on Earth that swim, and they can hold their breath for up to 30 minutes while foraging for algae underwater. Their prehistoric look and lazy beach poses make them perfect photography subjects.

You’ll often see them stacked in piles, basking in the sun to warm up after swimming, sneezing out excess salt through their snouts.

🗓️ Best time: Year-round

📍 Best spots: Punta Espinoza (Fernandina), Tintoreras (Isabela), and basically anywhere near lava rock shores. Honestly, San Cristobal’s sidewalks next to the shores are full of them too.

🐢 Green Sea Turtles

One of the most surreal experiences in the Galápagos is swimming alongside graceful sea turtles as they glide through the water without a care in the world. Many snorkelers are surprised by how completely unbothered these creatures are by your presence.

🗓️ Nesting season: December to March

📍 Best places: Los Túneles (Isabela), La Lobería (San Cristóbal), Las Tintoreras (Isabela)

🐧 Galápagos Penguins

Yes—penguins on the equator! These are the northernmost penguins in the world, and you can often spot them darting around like tiny torpedoes while snorkeling. Some of them get very curious and close, they may even peck your fins or camera, but they are completely harmless.

🗓️ Best time: May to December (cooler water = more sightings), although we saw them very close to us in February in Isabela.

📍 Best spots: Isabela (especially Los Túneles and Mariela Islands), Bartolomé Island

🦈 Reef Sharks (White-tip & Black-tip)

Swimming with white-tip and black-tip reef sharks is surprisingly calm—they tend to cruise silently along the seafloor and ignore snorkelers entirely. We had the chance to swim with several of them at Las Tintoreras, and the moment was pure adrenaline and awe.

🗓️ Best time: Year-round

📍 Best places: Las Tintoreras (Isabela), Kicker Rock (San Cristóbal)

🦈 Hammerhead Sharks

One of the most thrilling yet elusive encounters—hammerhead sharks tend to hang out in deeper waters and are more commonly seen by divers. If you’re an experienced diver, book a tour around Gordon Rocks or Kicker Rock for your best shot. We decided to take the snorkel tour to Kicker Rock and we were too far from hammerhead sharks, but the divers were able to see them up close.

🗓️ Best sightings: January to April

📍 Best dive sites: Gordon Rocks, Kicker Rock (San Cristóbal)

🐋 Whale Sharks & Dolphins

Although rarer, dolphins and whale sharks can be spotted, especially on boat rides between islands. Whale sharks typically show up around Isabela between June and November, while dolphins may race alongside boats unpredictably year-round.

🦅 Blue-footed Boobies

With their bright turquoise feet and quirky mating dances, blue-footed boobies are a Galápagos icon. You’ll see them nesting on rocky outcrops and occasionally diving dramatically into the sea to fish.

🗓️ Best time: Year-round

📍 Best spots: North Seymour, Española, and coastal cliffs on Isabela

🐦 Red-footed Boobies

These vibrant seabirds are a bit harder to find than their blue-footed cousins but are well worth the effort. With their striking red feet and pale blue beaks, red-footed boobies are excellent divers and strong fliers, often nesting in remote parts of the archipelago. Unlike blue-footed boobies, they nest in trees and shrubs rather than on the ground. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any.

🗓️ Best time: Typically seen during the dry season (June to December)

📍 Best spots: Genovesa Island (known as the best place to spot them), Punta Pitt on San Cristóbal

🐦 Frigatebirds

Famous for their dramatic red throat pouch, male frigatebirds inflate their balloon-like gular sacs to attract females during mating season—an unforgettable sight! These aerial acrobats are often seen soaring overhead or nesting in coastal mangroves. They are opportunistic feeders and may even steal food from other birds mid-air.

🗓️ Best time: Year-round (mating displays peak around March–April)

📍 Best spots: North Seymour, San Cristóbal’s coastlines, and any mangrove nesting areas

🐢 Giant Tortoises (Galápagos Turtles)

Last but not least, the giant Galápagos tortoises are one of the most famous species on the islands. These gentle giants can live over 100 years and weigh more than 400 pounds. We saw one massive tortoise in Isabela slowly moving in our of our hikes at the Camino de Tortugas Gigantes.

🗓️ Best time: Year-round

📍 Best places: El Chato Tortoise Reserve (Santa Cruz), Cerro Colorado (San Cristóbal)

🪸 And don’t forget…

You might also see seahorses, especially during snorkel tours at Los Túneles, or even octopuses, rays, and countless tropical fish species. The marine biodiversity here is simply mind-blowing.

💡 Pro Tip: Always follow local guides’ instructions, keep your distance, never touch wildlife, and use reef-safe sunscreen to protect both the animals and yourself. For some up-close footage of our favorite encounters—including playful sea lions and reef sharks—check out our YouTube channel or other socials linked at the top of this page.

💰 Approximate Trip Cost (February 2024)

✈️ Flights

• Domestic round-trip Quito ⇄ Galápagos(San Cristobal): $300 USD per person

🏨 Accommodation

• 1 night at airport hotel in Quito: $150 USD
• 2 nights in San Cristóbal: $160 total
• 2 nights in Isabela: $160 total

Total (5 nights): $470 USD for two people (private rooms with private bathroom)

⛴️ Inter-Island Transport

• Ferry San Cristóbal → Santa Cruz → Isabela: $35 + $30 USD per person
• Ferry Isabela → Santa Cruz (Baltra Airport): $35 USD per person
• Water taxis, port taxes, tips: ~$10 USD per person

Total transport: ~$110 USD per person

🤿 Tours & Excursions

• Kicker Rock Snorkeling Tour: $120 USD per person
• Los Túneles Snorkeling Tour: $150 USD per person
• Tintoreras Snorkeling Tour: $100 USD per person

Total tours: ~$370 USD per person

🍽️ Food & Drinks

• Local meals average ~10-15 USD per person, per meal

5-day total: ~$120–150 USD per person (includes snacks, drinks & water)

🦎 Park Fees & Entry Costs

• Galápagos National Park Entry Fee: $100 USD per person (cash only)
• Transit Control Card (TCC): $20 USD per person
• Snorkel gear: included with tours

Total: $120 USD per person (currently the entry fee is $200 for anyone over 12 years of age)

🌍 Total Estimated Cost (2 people): $2,510–$2,570 USD

🗺️ Day-by-Day Itinerary

Before we dive into our day-by-day Galápagos itinerary, there’s one key logistical note to keep in mind:

✈️ As of our trip in February 2024, all commercial flights to the Galápagos Islands (either Baltra or San Cristóbal) depart from mainland Ecuador—Quito or Guayaquil—early in the morning, generally before 1 PM. If you arrive in Ecuador in the late afternoon or evening (as we did), you’ll need to spend the night near the airport and catch a flight the following morning. While it means a shorter night’s sleep, it’s a necessary step to make the timing work and reach the islands rested and ready for adventure. Plus, you can catch the earliest flight and get there really early!

Day 1: Arrival in San Cristóbal – First Encounters with Galápagos Wildlife

Morning: After a short flight from Quito, we finally landed at San Cristóbal Airport in the Galápagos. A single runway at the airport is used for just a few daily flights, with a tiny building attached to it to pay the entry fee and get your luggage. The moment we stepped off the plane, we could feel the tropical heat and the raw, untouched energy of the islands. A quick taxi ride brought us to our accommodation, where we checked in, dropped off our bags, and immediately set out to explore the small coastal town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno.

Within just five minutes of walking, we were greeted by what would become a familiar sight—sea lions sprawled across the sidewalks, lounging on the beach, and even pushing tourists off benches for a better nap spot. These animals are the true locals here. They’re not aggressive, but they definitely stand their ground on land—especially the adult males. In the water, however, their behavior shifts. Juvenile sea lions are especially curious, often swimming alongside you and investigating with playful energy. But as always, it’s important to respect their space and avoid touching or approaching too closely, especially on land where they are more territorial.

We followed the coastal path through town, stopping at all the main points of interest that are within walking distance. From Playa de los Marinos to Playa de Oro and Playa Mann, each beach had its own vibe and wildlife encounters. We watched dozens of marine iguanas sunbathing on lava rocks, camouflaging among the volcanic terrain, and massive Sally Lightfoot crabs (yes, those iconic bright red ones that sometimes appear more purple) scuttling over the rocks feeding on algae and organic material. Their vivid colors made for incredible photography.

Afternoon: One of the highlights was our stop at the Charles Darwin statue, where we were surrounded by adult and baby sea lions—some of the pups so tiny they must have been only days or weeks old, still nursing from their mothers just a few feet away. We took our time here, capturing some close-up shots (from a respectful distance), soaking in how calm and at ease the animals were around humans.

We continued on foot to Playa de Oro, where we dipped our toes into the warm waters. The waves were a bit rough that day, so swimming was limited, but a few sea lions still came to check us out. As we made our way toward Playa Mann, the sun began its descent, painting the sky in golden hues. At Puerto Baquerizo Moreno Beach, we sat on the soft sand for the perfect end to our first day. To our surprise, a few sea lions—mostly juveniles—came ashore and chose to nap just inches from us, as if we were part of the landscape. It was a magical moment and a great introduction to the connection between humans and wildlife in the Galápagos.

We walked back to Playa de los Lobos to snap a few more photos during golden hour. One last walk through town took us past boats at the harbor, where sea lions were also napping aboard small fishing vessels, clearly not concerned that they weren’t invited.

Dinner that night was a delicious local affair—fried calamari, beef, and crispy patacones (fried green plantains) from one of the many cozy restaurants in town. We wrapped up the evening with an early night in, knowing that the next day would begin with one of the most anticipated adventures of our trip: snorkeling with sharks and sea lions at Kicker Rock.

📍 Next Up: Snorkeling with sharks and sea lions at the iconic Kicker Rock – a Galápagos experience you’ll never forget.

Day 2: Snorkeling at Kicker Rock – Frigates, Sea Turtles, and a Dash of Adrenaline

Morning: We woke up early for our first big adventure in the Galápagos—an exciting day trip to Kicker Rock, also known locally as León Dormido for its resemblance to a sleeping lion. After boarding a catamaran organized by a local tour company, we made our way into the open waters off the coast of San Cristóbal.

Our first stop was a small islet near the rock, where we spotted frigatebirds soaring above us with their bright red throat pouches inflated, a truly surreal sight. Many of them were also nesting right on the rocky ground nearby. It was our first close encounter with this iconic Galápagos species, and their distinct shape and coloration made them instantly recognizable.

The boat then approached Kicker Rock, an imposing volcanic formation rising straight out of the ocean. The group split in two—those with diving licenses descended into the depths for a chance to see hammerhead sharks up close, while the rest of us prepared to snorkel along the surface. Although we didn’t have a diving license (something that’s strictly required here), the experience from above was still breathtaking. We swam alongside multiple sea turtles, colorful reef fish, and even a few sharks, including what I’m fairly sure was a small hammerhead, just visible from the surface in the distance. The divers in our group confirmed they saw several hammerheads swimming nearby.

However, one aspect of the experience was a little concerning. Due to recent storms, parts of the rock face had become unstable. While our guide initially advised us to stay at a safe distance, the group was brought uncomfortably close to the cliff, and small rocks actually fell into the water nearby. We were able to swim away and give ourselves more space separated from the group, but it’s worth mentioning for those who value safety and caution.

After our time at Kicker Rock, we headed to a nearby pristine beach. Here we got the chance to relax, walk along the white sand, and snorkel in calmer waters. This area was full of surprises—marine iguanas swimming alongside us, schools of bright fish, and even a few some sea turtles.

Afternoon: We returned to San Cristóbal in the early afternoon and took the rest of the day to enjoy the town at a more relaxed pace. This gave us time to revisit favorite photo spots and take in more of the slow rhythm of island life—no tour group, no rush, just golden light and wildlife everywhere.

Evening: We wrapped up our day with dinner at the same cozy local restaurant we’d fallen in love with the night before. The menu featured crispy patacones, local empanadas, perfectly seasoned meat, and refreshing fruit milkshakes—exactly what we needed to recharge after a full day in the ocean.

📍  Next Up: A full day of inter-island travel—speedboating from San Cristóbal to Isabela with a scenic stopover in Santa Cruz along the way.

Day 3: Island Hopping to Isabela – Penguins, Flamingos & A Scenic Stop in Santa Cruz

Morning: Day 3 began early with a 7:00 AM ferry departure from San Cristóbal to Isabela, but we were instructed to arrive an hour in advance. All passengers had to board the ferry via water taxi, a process that can take time given the number of travelers—our boat held nearly 50 people. Though the distance between islands isn’t far, our journey stretched across the entire day due to a required stopover in Santa Cruz.

After about two hours of navigation, we arrived in Puerto Ayora, the largest town in Santa Cruz, for a roughly four-hour stopover before heading back to board our speedboat an hour ahead of departure again. Since we had prepaid for secure lockers through the ferry company, we were free to explore the town without our luggage. Puerto Ayora has a different vibe—more developed, bustling, and full of energy. The scorching sun and cloudless sky made it the hottest day of our Galápagos adventure, and with our skin already sunburned from previous days, we quickly sought shade where we could.

We strolled along the main road, admiring the colorful architecture of homes and businesses, cactus-crowned trees, and well-maintained sidewalks with dedicated walking and bike lanes. One of the highlights of this short visit was the local fish market, where workers were busy cleaning and preparing the day’s catch. Just behind them stood a group of pelicans, patiently waiting for discarded scraps of fish—a mesmerizing mix of nature and daily life.

Along the waterfront, the clear turquoise waters revealed blacktip sharks, swimming marine iguanas, sea turtles, and a variety of birds diving for fish. After soaking up the sights, we stopped at a relaxed, open-air restaurant for lunch, recharging with seafood rice, local meats, and fresh juices before boarding the second leg of our journey.

Afternoon: After a hearty meal and picking up our luggage, we initiated the last length of the speedboat trip. As the ferry neared Isabela Island, excitement surged. On the volcanic rocks by the shoreline, we spotted our first Galápagos penguins in the wild—about a dozen of them sunbathing, grooming, or diving in the water like miniature torpedoes.

Once docked, we grabbed a taxi to our accommodation at the far end of town. This quieter area placed us close to some of Isabela’s top wildlife-viewing spots and trails. On our way, we even passed a sign warning drivers of “iguana crossings”—a fun (and accurate) touch that made us smile.

Evening: After checking in, we walked to the nearby lagoon (Poza de los Flamingos), where we were treated to another first: seeing wild flamingos. Their bright pink feathers stood out beautifully against the still water and surrounding greenery. We also spotted other long-legged waders in the area, adding to the peaceful, photogenic atmosphere.

Before heading to dinner, we made a quick stop at the local tour company to get fitted for our wetsuits in preparation for the next day’s snorkeling tour. With everything ready for the morning, we enjoyed a local meal and called it an early night, eager for the underwater adventures ahead.

📍 Next Up: Waling and snorkeling through lava tunnels and swimming alongside sea turtles, reef sharks, and playful penguins in Isabela’s stunning waters.

Day 4: Snorkeling with Penguins & Hiking Among Giants on Isabela

Morning: We were picked up from our accommodation around 7AM for our much-anticipated Los Túneles snorkeling tour—one of the most famous experiences in Isabela. This half-day adventure (~5 hours), while not cheap (cost around $150 USD per person), it absolutely lived up to the hype.

After a scenic boat ride along Isabela’s rugged coastline, we reached the surreal lava tunnels where crystal-clear waters flow through natural rock arches. As we slid into the water, the marine life immediately surrounded us. Sea turtles were everywhere—so unconcerned by our presence that we often had to gently move aside to avoid a full-on turtle collision. White-tip reef sharks swam just beneath us.

We spotted penguins torpedoing through the water, and even found one calmly sunbathing on a rock—close enough for a selfie, but always keeping a respectful distance. At one point, we hovered above a tiny seahorse, camouflaged and swaying with the seagrass. And near the lava tunnels, blue-footed boobies perched just meters away, unfazed as we observed them from the boat. The entire experience was truly awesome and intimate—a rare moment where nature allowed us to quietly step into its world.

Afternoon: After a quick lunch and some rest, we laced up our shoes for a walk along the Camino de las Tortugas Gigantes, a coastal trail offering a different but equally breathtaking Galápagos experience. The route winds through lush, varied vegetation with marine iguanas lounging on the rocks, pelicans gliding above the water, and the distant sound of waves hitting the volcanic shore.

Halfway through our hike, a rainstorm rolled in, soaking us completely—but the scenery, the moody skies, and the chance to see nature in full force only made it more magical. At the end of the trail, our patience was rewarded with a sight we had been dreaming of: a majestic Galápagos giant tortoise, calmly moving through the path, completely unfazed by our presence.

Evening: That evening, back in town, we rewarded ourselves with a hearty local dinner. We chose a small restaurant with a diverse menu featuring fresh seafood, grilled meats, patacones, and a surprisingly great selection of locally brewed Galápagos beer. It was the perfect end to a long but unforgettable day.

📍 Next Up: Exploring Tintoreras—get ready to snorkel with reef sharks, spot marine iguanas, and walk across a surreal lava landscape.

Day 5: Shark Encounters, Playful Sea Lions & a Farewell to Isabela

Morning: Our final full day in the Galápagos began with another incredible snorkeling tour—this time to Tintoreras, a small volcanic islet just off the coast of Isabela. Though close to town, the area felt completely wild and remote.

The tour started with a short boat ride during which we saw blue-footed boobies and Galápagos penguins sharing rocky perches, while frigate birds soared overhead. Once in the water, we entered what felt like a marine playground. Dozens of white-tip reef sharks glided below us in narrow channels, utterly unfazed by our presence. They swam just meters away, cruising calmly through the lava crevices.

As we continued snorkeling, we were joined by a small group of adult sea lions, who swam alongside us, weaving in and out of view with natural grace. They studied us curiously, circling around and sometimes swimming beneath us before darting ahead. The combination of sharks below and sea lions beside us made for one of the most surreal wildlife encounters of our entire trip.

Afternoon: After snorkeling, we made a brief landing on Tintoreras Island itself, a dry, volcanic landscape teeming with life. We walked through what appeared to be a nesting ground for marine iguanas, observing mothers surrounded by tiny hatchlings. They crawled over black lava rocks like miniature dragons, perfectly camouflaged. We also saw a few more penguins, resting along the coast, and even more blue-footed boobies dotting the edges of the islet.

Returning to the main dock, we decided to stop at Concha de Perla, a small natural bay just a few minutes’ walk away. The wooden platform was covered in marine iguanas and sea lions, with some sprawled out across benches, ignoring or nudging tourists aside as they claimed their resting spots.

We climbed down the stairs into the water and were instantly met by juvenile sea lions, spinning and twirling through the turquoise bay. One swam directly up to our camera, inspecting it with their nose. It was magical, playful, and completely unscripted—one of those rare moments where wildlife connects with you out of pure curiosity.

Evening: After a couple of hours enjoying this unforgettable encounter, we made our way back into town for one last walk through Puerto Villamil. We wandered past local markets, panaderías (bakeries), and small shops, before heading toward the Malecón, where the volcanic and sandy coastline was covered in dozens of iguanas soaking up the last rays of the day. Some were crawling into sandy nests dug just off the beach—one final show of Galápagos wildlife to seal the trip.

We returned to our favorite restaurant one last time for a dinner of fresh seafood and crispy patacones, reflecting on all we had experienced over the last five days.

After one last restful night in Isabela, sleeping under a severe thunderstorm, our journey through the Galápagos came to an end. The next morning, we took an early speedboat from Puerto Villamil to Santa Cruz, a bumpy 2-hour ride made even rougher by heavy rain. While most travelers take a shared bus across the island to the Itabaca Channel ferry terminal, we opted for a private taxi to save time and ensure we made our flight. From there, it’s a quick ferry ride to Baltra Island, home to the Galápagos airport. After flying back to Quito, we faced a long 8-hour layover before our connecting international flight back home. It was a long and exhausting travel day, but absolutely worth every second of the unforgettable wildlife encounters and pristine landscapes we had experienced throughout the week.

🧐 Final Reflections

Visiting the Galápagos Islands is like stepping into a nature documentary. It’s one of those rare destinations where wildlife encounters are guaranteed, and the line between traveler and observer becomes beautifully blurred. Nowhere else have we had sea lions swim playfully beside us, penguins torpedo past our fins, or sharks circle calmly nearby—seemingly unbothered by our presence. And let’s not forget the endless sunbathing iguanas, vibrant red and orange crabs crawling along lava rocks, and the sight of baby sea lions nursing on the shore just steps away.

What makes the Galápagos even more remarkable is the balance between tourism and preservation. Yes, the logistics can be complex. Inter-island ferries take time, and infrastructure is limited. But this is precisely what keeps the Galápagos wild and authentic. The fact that you can walk into town and share a bench with a sea lion, or swim in turquoise waters where turtles, sharks, and penguins coexist, is a reminder of how nature can thrive when properly protected.

We chose to explore the islands independently, without a cruise, giving us the freedom to slow down, photograph, and fully immerse ourselves in each moment. And while this meant longer transfers and a bit more planning, it rewarded us with flexibility, meaningful encounters, and the ability to choose how much time we spent at each site. In a future trip, we would probably choose the cruise to have a different experience and compare.

If you’re planning your own Galápagos trip, prepare for unpredictable conditions, intense sun, bumpy boat rides, and moments that will stay with you forever. Go with curiosity and respect. Bring a waterproof camera, reef-safe sunscreen, and a sense of wonder.

Because in the Galápagos, you’re not just a visitor—you’re part of the ecosystem, if only for a brief, magical moment.

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